SAVEUR -- OCTOBER 2003
MUSSELS, NOODLES and THAI FOIE
GRAS
The best young chefs in Bangkok
today celebrate
both tradition and innovation
In a century-old colonial mansion whose dining rooms are
artfully decorated with teak panels and softly glowing lamps, is
the Blue Elephant, where chef Chang reigns. Not only is this
Blue Elephant the first to serve fusion food; it is also the
first to operate a cooking school, which will function as a
training center for all new Blue Elephant cooks and offer daily
classes in both classic and creative Thai cuisine to the public.
Left:
The colonial facade of the Blue Elephant in Bangkok. Right:Students at the Blue Elephant's cooking school.
According to Chang,
when he is experimenting in the kitchen, his goal is not simply
to put a minor twist on a classic Thai dish but to make
something truly different.” I don’t want to take pad thai and
change it,” he says. “That should stay the way
it is - it’s
already great.”
Chang’s respect for classic Thai food was instilled in him by
his grandmother, who as a young girl worked in the gardens and
kitchens of the royal palace.
Right: Foie gras with tamarind
sauce and mashed sweet potatoes.
Left: Chef "Chang" Mulijan.
In 1984, Chang was
the opening chef of the chain’s first location, Brussels, and
he’s overseen all the opening since. But he admits that debuting
in his hometown was the most nerve-racking moment of his
career: ” Who was this international chain to come to Thailand
and tell Thai chefs how to cook Thai food?” His mastery of
classic Thai food and his creative talent quickly won them over,
though.
Perhaps the most
important thing he wants his cook to realize is that the world
thai means freedom, both literally and figuratively:” The
freedom to cook with whatever vegetables or meats you want. It
is the herbs and spices and the balance of taste that makes food
Thai."
