The Gulf Today Thursday, April14, 2005
EXOTIC FLAVOURS

The Around the World menu, newly introduced at Blue Elephant in Al Bustan Rotana Hotel, Dubai, brings the best of flavours from various outlets of the chain worldwide.

Sam Lee writes

   
 

The scent of tropical flowers mingles with the heady aroma of exotic herbs and spices and the gurgle of running water. Luscious greenery, rustic wood, scintillating attire and heart-warming smiles herald the exalted gourmet of Royal Thai cuisine that awaits you at the Blue Elephant restaurant in Al Bustan Rotana Hotel, Dubai. 

            “Sawad dee Krab,” greets every staff that you come across, with a touchingly respectful gesture, joining their palms together on their chest and bowing. In Thailand, this “chest level” salutation is traditionally reserved for the guests, while greeting one’s own mother, the palms are raised to “lip level” it goes up another notch for the monks, and the highest level of  greeting, with the palms raised to the forehead,  is for the King. A lady received with a “Sawad dee kra” greeting.

The distinctly lush aesthetics – a profusion of natural plants and orchid flowers, tranquil pools with colourful toy carps and waterfalls, red-tiled village houser, stone elephants, exquisitely themed Thai artefacts and antiques, “Maisak” wood walls and floorings. “Wang” bent-wood furniture, bamboo mats – that distinguish the interiors of all the Blue Elephant restaurants world-wide, from Bangkok to Paris, Brussels, London, Copenhagen, Moscow, Valleta, Lyon, Beirut, Bahrain, Kuwait, Beijing, New Delhi, Ayutthaya or Chiangmai, embellish the enchanting ambience of this showpiece unit as well. Dubai’s was the first franchise of the Blue Elephant brand concept. 

            “We bring fresh flowers, herbs and banana leaves straight from Thailand,” said Tom Wuthichai, manager of the restaurant that exults in its “Royal Thai” gourmet glory.
( The evocatively romantic name itself is a reflection of the fabled legacy of the ancient kingdom.) The orchids and other floral decorations are refreshed every Wednesday.

Spread across wooden bridges and stone-laid pathways, the 140-cover restaurant is divided into five “bans”(houses), each symbolising the culinary traditions and cuttural traits of various regions of Thailand. The Floating House and the Market by the river, closer to the waterfall, are hot favourites. “ At night you can look up and see the playful carps on the ceiling glass – the reflection of course, while the moon will be shining in the pool down below,” said Wuthichai, who keeps count of his precious fish in the pool – all 66 of them!


             Suphan, who is exceptionally versatile in his curries and starters, also brings his wide-ranging experience from a career that took him fresh from the Hotel Management studies in Korat, Thailand, first to Al Ain Inter Continental, then to Sheraton in Oman, Abu Dhabi Inter Continental, then back to Thailand to be part of the Planet Hollywood in Bangkok, again back to Abu Dhabi to join Le Meridien’s Thai seafood outlet. Once in Rotana, Suphan went to Bangkok for a special training in Blue Elephant style.

 

            Even as you wait for the “royal procession” of dishes to start, the seafood crackers – wafers – accompanied with the famous platter of five variations  of sauces – the thick paste of Thai sriracha sauce, fish sauce with chilli, chilli in oil, chilli paste and soya sauce – arrive in style, with and ubiquitous rose orchid tucked in.

             Then came the white porcelain conch – it’s flaring lush lips revealing the cream-white strips of tender coconut in the Tom Kha Ped Yang soup from Beijing. As refreshing as its style of presentation, it’s roasted duck with young coconut flavoured with lemongrass and galangal.

            Chef Suphan unveiled another surprise from his seafood repertoire: The Thai Black pepper Prawn (inspired from Bahrain). Once again, the serving plate was a curious novelty of rectangular blue porcelain. This local prawn is refined stir-fried preparation with dried black pepper and fresh green peppercorn. The herbs do the magic!

Now, Chito comes with a conical bamboo-ply basket filled with steaming jasmine rice! This silken light Thai rice is perfect to go with any of the dishes. 

            It was in Lyon that Suphan found the perfect Panaeng Kai chicken speciality. The two-red-elephant hot rich curry of supreme

chicken had this incredible blend of coconut  milk flavoured with sweet basil. The dish came in a clay pot, placed on another clay oven warmed by a single candle. Where else can you get such a sweet delicacy of chicken – with coconut milk? 

            For a vegetable dish, Suphan would suggest the green stems of pumpkin. Here, he presented Morning Glory, sourced from a Bangkok version, which is quick stir-fried with crushed red chilli and oyster sauce. The stems are succulent and tender with an agreeable two-red-elephant spiciness.

 

Amanpuri, Banthai and Khantok, the other houses, have distinctive art décor and unique metallic artefacts and wood-works. The polished wooden boards on the floor in Khantok are typical Thai interior furnishing, where you can recline on cushions and dangle your feet down below the floor when a plank is opened.

             Bent-cane chairs are padded with white cushions. Beaten bronze plates an cutlery, rose orchids adorning some of the plates, and oh! The costumes! The girls have six different sets of dazzling ethnic wear-silken dresses with fanning folds, shimmering golden brocades and stunning cuts! Perhaps only the many-splendoured fruit-carvings and the artistry of the hand-crafted banana plates – layers of the leaf intricately sewn into an amazing wreath – could distract you from some of those drapes.
 
And of course the first whiff of the Thai herbs can lure you straight away: The indispensable flavouring of lemongrass., the aniseed-liquor ice taste of basil and the ginger-like galangal. But then, the rich, creamy coconut milk dominates every other dish in any Thai kitchen.  The Blue Elephant menu is meticulous in earmarking the “spicy hot level” of each item by red elephant marks: One red elephant means “medium hot”, two elephants denote “hot”, and three “very hot”.

Around the world
Head chef Nanant Suphan, who is just back from an extensive trip, “to fetch the best elements” from the most popular dishes around the other Blue Elephant restaurants from Paris to London, Bangkok to New Delhi, is all set to present his new “around the World” menu in Dubai.

 

            Star of Siam is a heavenly melange of fresh tropical fruits, including papaya, melon, kiwi and pineapple, served on a banana leaf. There’s the homemade coconut ice-cream and pudding to complete the picture.icture.icture.

 

            And finally comes a plate of Sum pani, dried pineapple pieces with a white  chocolate coating on one end. Like many of the dishes here, this plate too is adorned with a rose orchid! The jasmine tea comes in a beautiful porcelain white elephant pot. It’s again a work to behold!

             What is most amazing about this sumptuous World menu at the Blue Elephant is that in spite of generous helpings it feels light. It is simply out of this world!

   
 

 

 
 
 
 

BLUE ELEPHANT INTERNATIONAL PLC
4-6 Fulham Broadway, London SW6 1AA, United Kingdom
Phone: +44 20 7385 6595 Fax: +44 20 7386 7665
E-mail:
info@blueelephant.com

 
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