BANGKOK POST: Friday, September 20, 2002
DINE & WINE - Eating out
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Vanniya Sriangura

 

Bringing all back home

Topnotch combination of traditional and innovative dishes at new Thai eatery


Blue Elephant restaurant
233 Sathon Tai Road
Tel: 02-673-9353
Open daily 11:30am to 2:30pm
and 6:30pm to 10:30pm

I didn't expect much when I first visited the famous Blue Elephant restaurant, regardless of its well established reputation. It was probably because of the unimpressive experience I've had with Thai restaurants that have their roots overseas and also my own perception. Bland, milk and overly sweet were my expectations - food wise. But surprisingly it turned out at that sometimes you can not tar all such restaurants with the same brush.

 

The very Blue Elephant restaurant was established in 1980 in Brussels, Belgium, by a small group of Thai friends. This was the start of a highly successful venture - over the next 22 years, 12 more Blue Elephant restaurants have been opened all over Europe and Asia (London, Paris, Copenhagen and Dubai to name a few), serving as one of the top Thai restaurants in each location and also as an unofficial culinary ambassador for Thailand.

The Bangkok branch of the restaurant, which opened a month ago, occupies the 100-year-old Thai-Chinese Chamber building - an officially - designated historic building - on Sathorn Tai road; With renovations totaling more than 30 million baht, the place has been turned into a restaurant and cooking school. According to Rungsan Mulijan or Chef Chang, Blue Elephant's corporate chef, the Bangkok branch also serves as the chef training centre where new dishes are created. The menu here is different from those served at other Blue Elephant restaurants. While 30 percent of the extensive list consists of ever-popular dishes, 70 percent are fusion creations of old favorites with a new twist as well as some totally new items. Little red elephant symbols on the menu indicate the level of spiciness of each dish.

Every customer is served with a complimentary snack of the day. On the day of my visit, it was a piece of steamed flower-shaped dumpling (chor muang) a crispy cup with tasty filling (krathong thong) and a single bite portion of pomelo salad (yam som-o) served in cure miniature bamboo baskets. All were very delighful, and all the more so due to their rarity on other restaurants' menu.

As one of the restaurant's most popular choices,  we couldn't miss foie gras with tamarind sauce (480 baht). Blue Elephant's proud innovation was served with fantastic mashed sweet potatoes. The dish was a marriage of European goose liver from Landes and authentic Thai tamarind sauce. Topped with deep-fried, thinly sliced garlic, which gave a heavenly texture, the liver intermingled greatly with the sweet and tangy sauce. The talented Chef Chang also did an exceptional job making the delicious mashed potatoes without milk and butter, yet with local holy basil leaves and loofah broth.
 

For the main course, we tried black chicken in green curry served with roti pancake (350 baht). Green curry with chicken is Blue Elephant's most ordered dish at every one of its outlets the world over. In order to make the dish more interesting and creative when they are back home, Chef Chang uses black chicken instead of regular chicken. Meaty pieces of black chicken swam in thick green curry with Thai eggplants. The dish has three red elephants marked on the menu, so it meant that the very tasty soup was also brashly hot. However, it went well with the crispy roti or you can eat it with jasmine rice, too.

Then we had spaghetti khee maow (320 baht). This was black squid ink spaghetti stir-fried with shrimps, squid, garlic, tomato sauce, basil leaves and chillies. The dish was intensely packed with flavours and fresh seafood. It's highly recommended as quick lunch dish for those who dare the spiciness.

For dessert, we were fortunate to sample many things. First we had durian cheesecake (150 baht). Served with marvelous durian icecream, this unusual cheesecake was pleasant. Another delight was the warm chocolate tart (150 baht). Made from fine Belgium chocolate and topped with chopped candied ginger, the dessert was rich and smoothly silky, and also went well with mulberry leaf icecream served on the side.

Then we had tamarind icecream (110 baht). Like other icecreams served here, this was homemade. Its rich and refreshing flavour and gooey texture made it difficult to put the spoon down.

Everything under the Blue Elephant name is maintained to a strict standard, from the quality of the ingredients, the serving portions and the food decoration to the table settings and the menu listings. Furniture used at every branch is of the same style. The interior of the 60-seat dining room at the Sathon branch was sophisticatedly decorated with a classy oriental touch. Before or after the meal, customers can hang out at the modern-looking cocktail bar on the second floor.

Blue Elephant's hands-on cooking class, priced at 2,800 baht, is held on a daily basis. In the morning students are taken to the fresh market where the chef shows how to select good quality products. After the shopping trip, the students are back at the class, each has his/her own cooking station fully equipped with kitchen utensils. Then the hands-on practice begins. Four entrees are taught each day and the class ends in the afternoon.

Though the menu was quite pricey, the food proved to be of the highest quality and most satisfactory. Personally, I will go back there and I highly recommend you give the place a try.

 

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BLUE ELEPHANT INTERNATIONAL PLC
4-6 Fulham Broadway, London SW6 1AA, United Kingdom
Phone: +44 20 7385 6595 Fax: +44 20 7386 7665
E-mail:
info@blueelephant.com

 
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