Chillies exist in many varieties. Two large chillies and birds eye chillies are indicated in recipes in this book. Large chillies' refer to chillies about 7.5 cm/3in long, which can be green, orange or red, or varied in colour.

Lemongrass is another indispensable flavouring that typifies Thai cuisine. It is readily obtainable in oriental food stores. The coarser, upper part of the stem should be discarded. Select large stems, light green and straight, without bruising

Bai horapa or Thai basil (confusingly sometimes referred to as both holy basil and sweet basil) has a distinctive aniseed/ liquorice taste, one of the basic flavours that typify Thai cusine. It is worth seeking it out in Thai grocerss. Lemonbasil, more occasionally used, is slightly minty. The basil commonly used in the west is a poor substitute for either.

Galangal, also known as Kha, belongs to the ginger family but in harder with a lighter, pinkish flesh. It is available in Asian food stores but, if necessary, common root ginger can be substituted. Pick the whitest available galangal roots with the minimum of "eyes".

Fresh root ginger should always be used. Select firm roots with the minimum of protuberances. Ground ginger has a completely different flavor and is not a substitute.